Kyosho’s SC6 is the latest competition kit to be offered in the current Ultima series that includes the RB6 buggy and RT6 stadium truck. After taking a quick look through the box and browsing through the instruction manual, I was eager to build this very high-quality short-course truck for review in the November issue of RC Car Action. Let’s get started.

Kyosho breaks down the SC6 build into sections that consist of front end, the transmission/rear end and the shocks.
- The SC6 Manual’s table of contents tells you what you’re in store for when the time comes to build.
- The clear and easy to understand instructions make the SC6 an easy build.
- The smaller bags are clearly labeled and correspond to a step in the manual.

The first thing you build on the SC6 is the front bulkhead. Aluminum steering post are inserted through the bottom and ball studs are installed into the inner most hole with a 1mm roll center washer to raise the ball.

The aluminum bellcrank pieces install onto the previously installed aluminum steering posts. The bellcranks ride on ball bearings for ultra precise steering action.
- Step 3 haves you install the front suspension arms to the dual position (25 or 30 degree) kick up block. The shock mounts on the arms have two mounting positions (the instructions say outer hole mount) for fine-tuning.
- When Step 3 is done, this is what you will have.
- The front end mounts to the chassis via two 3x15mm countersunk screws that run through the front bumper, then the chassis.
- Step 4 is the first step that involves the chassis. The chassis itself uses lightweight, rigid aluminum that is further lightened by having milled out sections. Most of those holes running down the center of the chassis are for different battery mounting positions!

Step 5 has you install mounting hardware and the spring loaded servo saver to the servo. The servo saver makes the SC6 forgiving to drive and is good for outdoor loose conditions. For an indoor, higher traction clay track, you might want to install a solid servo horn for a more direct feel.
- The servo installs to the chassis using 3x8mm countersunk screws. The shorty steering link connects the servo to the bellcranks.
- The plastic chassis side guards are next to mount to the chassis four 3x8mm countersunk screws. Some of the screws can later be removed to tune chassis flex.
- The overall build is looking pretty clean so far.
- The side guards have a nifty servo wire routing incorporated into them to give you a snag-free clean look.

The front upper plate mounts right above the steering assembly to protect it while making the front end flex free.
- The front shock tower mounts to the upper plate while the rest of the pieces of the front bumper to complete it.
- The body post brace mounts to the top of the bumper to make it a totally different assembly that doesn’t mount to the front shock tower like most SC trucks do.

Step 11 in the manual has you put together the steering knuckle assembly. Here side by side is a incomplete and completely assembled unit. A hinge pin insert let you widen or narrow width of the front end.

Twelve hardened steel balls are used in the differential. Tough steel outdrives are used to handle monster modified motor power.

The use of an aluminum main gear shaft helps to reduce rotating mass in the SC6 tranny. Five screws hold the transmission case together. A full set of Teflon shielded ball bearings keep the tranny spinning super free.
- Four of the five screws bold to the motor plate with the 5th screw installing on the leading edge of the transmission if you’re assembling the truck as a rear motor.
- A standard 2-plate slipper clutch installs onto the main gear shaft. An 80-tooth spur gear is included. You will need a smaller (a 69-tooth would work) spur gear for stock racing.

The steel universals come preassembled from the factory, which saves some build time. I put a small drop of oil to lubricate the joint.
- Step 17 has you install the rear bulkhead and shock tower. The previous step had you also install the forward hinge pin holder for the rear arms.
- The arms installed next along with the lower portion of the rear bumper. Pay close attention to make sure the arms move freely and fall under their own weight.
- The upper pieces of the bumper are next to be installed and complete the assembly.

These are all the parts that complete the rear hub assembly. One together, they are tidy units that are easily removed from the SC6 for adjustment or maintenance.
- In step 25, the instructions have you install the hub in the slightly forward, shorter wheelbase position. Lock nuts securely hold the hinge pin in place.
- The rear upper camber links neatly snapped into place. The instructions have you space the ball cups 36.5mm apart on the turnbuckle.
- The rear body mount connects to the top of the transmission case and the rear shock tower.

The messiest part of the build was next; building the shocks. Standard two o-ring sealing is used on the shock bottom. The plastic top shock cap has a bleeder screw to aid in the bleeding process once you have filled the shock up with oil. Here are all the parts that make the SC6 shocks and a complete one.
- Here are the rear shocks installed on the SC6.
- Here are the front shocks installed.

The battery mounts are adjustable to accept any sized battery. The battery strap is secured in place with two metal clips.

The side guards install next that will help protect the SC6 from side impacts. There is enough surface area on the end of the guards to stick on some Velcro.

The SC6 is pretty much complete at this point and ready to accept running gear, wheels/tires and body.
A top tier truck like the SC6 deserves electronics of the same caliber. I plan to install an Orion power package that includes their new Vortex R10.1 speed control, 8.5T VST2 Pro Brushless Motor and Orion Carbon Pro 4000 WTS.
Keep an eye out for my full review of the SC6 in the November issue of RC Car Action.
Sources
Kyosho kyoshoamerica.com