Pit Tips

No more E-clips

Instead of relying only on E-clips to keep your car’s hingepins in place, add a 4-40 setscrew for extra security. To do this, drill a hole in the arm mount or hub carrier (whichever part has more ‘meat’) so the setscrew will intersect the hingepin bore, and drill the hole slightly smaller than the setscrew so it will thread properly. Next, grind a flat spot on the hingepin where the setscrew pinches it, and assemble the parts so the setscrew tightens against the flat. No more lost hingepins!
Jun 12, 2009 Comments
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No more E-clips

Instead of relying only on E-clips to keep your car’s hingepins in place, add a 4-40 setscrew for extra security. To do this, drill a hole in the arm mount or hub carrier (whichever part has more ‘meat’) so the setscrew will intersect the hingepin bore, and drill the hole slightly smaller than the setscrew so it will thread properly. Next, grind a flat spot on the hingepin where the setscrew pinches it, and assemble the parts so the setscrew tightens against the flat. No more lost hingepins!
Jun 12, 2009 Comments
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Cover me! I’m going in!

To make shock coverings (usually a balloon or finger from a latex glove) easier to install, wrap your spring in electrician’s tape, leaving about a 3-inch tab hanging off the bottom of it. Now, with the tape in place, the shock covering will easily slide over the spring. Once the shock covering is in the proper position, just pull the tab and the tape will unravel off the spring, and the covering will stay in place. Brad King
Allison Park, PA
May 02, 2009 Comments
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Receiver Pack Strap

The 4-cell receiver battery-pack holders that often come with nitro kits work fine, but AA cells can pop out of the holder during hard running. If a cell pops loose, it can cause a loss of signal. To prevent this, wrap electrical tape around the battery pack. The tape will hold the pack securely in place even during the hardest driving, but it will still be easy to remove.
Keith Quill
Buffalo, NY
Apr 30, 2009 Comments
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Chassis Markup

On most nitro vehicles, you have to reset the gear mesh whenever you reinstall the engine. If you thoroughly clean your vehicle after every day of running, you’ll have to set the gear mesh quite often. If you know your gear mesh is perfect, before you remove your engine, scratch lines on the bottom of the chassis plate to show exactly where the engine-mount screw heads are. Next, fill these scratch marks with a bright paint, and wipe off the excess. Now, you’ll be able to quickly reinstall your engine with confidence, knowing that your gear mesh will be perfect.
Stephen Carter
Kissimmee, FL
Apr 29, 2009 Comments
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Screened in

When running big breather holes in off-road tires or even small holes on touring-car tires, small rocks sometimes work their way into the rim and get trapped. To prevent this, glue a small piece of window-screen mesh over the opening. This will allow air to pass freely but will prevent debris from getting in and adding weight, or setting the wheel out of balance. Peter Bedford
Fairfax, VA
Apr 28, 2009 Comments
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Nickel-and-dime ride-height gauge

Forgot your ride-height gauge? No problem; you can use the change in your pocket to adjust your touring car?s ride height. For asphalt, most racers set up their cars with a 5mm ride height. A stack of three quarters or four dimes equals 5mm. Set up the stack of coins, and lower or raise the ride height until the chassis just grazes the coins as it rolls over them.
Apr 27, 2009 Comments
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No-mess diff-ball greasing

Cut a slit in the bag that the diff balls came in, and then squeeze diff grease into the bag. Work the grease around the balls, and then remove them one at a time as you build your diff. The greased diff balls will stick to the tip of a hobby-knife blade, and installing them in the diff-gear holes will be much easier.
Apr 06, 2009 Comments
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