Each of the semi-trailing rear arms gets a stub axle and a ball stud before installation on the chassis. The axle spins on a pair of sealed ball bearings, and like the transmission bearings, the fit in the suspension arm is very precise. Note that there’s no drive hex; instead, the “drive washer” is serrated so the wheel won’t slip against it. An upgrade to a hex would be welcome, but we’ll see how it holds up. Gotta keep those wheel nuts tight…
Arm installed. It’s not apparent in this photo, but the standoffs that hold the arm’s hingepin are two different heights, which gives the hingepin a few degrees of anti-squat.
The shocks snap easily into place. Pay attention when you install the shocks, as the front and rears are different lengths and have different spring rates. If you strip off all the springs and open up all the shocks at the same time to fill them, it’s easy to accidentally mis-match the shafts, bodies, and springs–so double check!
On to the front suspension. A cast-in boss accepts a ball stud for the lower shock end (which I forgot to thread in before snapping this pic), and the elbow-shaped piece combines the hingepin and kingpin. The manual calls for the ball studs to be set at specific heights, which I measured using a set of digital calipers. I have a nice Mitutoyo that I got years ago, but now it’s easy to get cheap digital calipers that are fine for RC work–like these. Very handy.
Front suspension assembly continues with the tie rods and upper links. The shock tools also fit the suspension links’ rod ends, which makes it easy to spin the ends into place. Every kit should include tools like these, thanks Kyosho!
Here’s the completed suspension. If you took time to measure the suspension links precisely, you’ll be rewarded with a properly aligned front end.
It’s not actually time to install the wheels and tires, but I couldn’t resist seeing the Scorpion as a roller. Looking good…